Mbe Kouen

Mbe Kouen, New Caledonia, South Pacific, May 2021

Some pics from our recent stay at Mbe Kouen, a tiny, deserted islet in the southern part of the big new Caledonian lagoon.

The sandy beach of the islet grows at lowering tide, offering more space for pumping up the kite when the wind sings for some play.

As fun it is to be powered by the wind, my passion and curiosity for the marine life always brings me back beneath the waves…

Over the past 240 million years, coral reefs have evolved into one of the largest and most complex ecosystems on the planet. I feel so much awe and wonder when visiting these amazingly beautiful marine habitats.

The reef systems of New Caledonia are considered to be the second largest in the world after the Great Barrier Reef of Australia. 

This 1600km long New Caledonian barrier reef encloses the largest lagoon in the world, a lagoon of 24,000 square kilometres containing many tiny, deserted islets and coral reefs. 

A truly amazing place to be and so much to explore and admire.

From Rainforest To Island Life

New Caledonia, South Pacific, April-May 2021

From a short but sweet visit to the humid, evergreen rainforest, where the beautiful fern trees grow high and majestic…

… we soon find ourselves back on the water. After the lockdown, where no navigation nor island visits were allowed, followed by some time spent in the city of Noumea, to stock up on food and necessities for the boat, we are very pleased to freely be back on the vast, blue lagoon.

More wind is in the forecast and we finally get to gear up with kites and boards for some sweet riding powered by the wind. After a long break from kitesurfing, it surely is fun to be playing among the chops again.

As long as weather conditions allow, we like to spend plenty time at each place we go. Out here we are surrounded by the soundtrack we enjoy so much, the pure sound of wind, waves and seabirds.

Where the sky and ambient light paints the scen, no moment is the same. Even the view from the very same spot is ever-changing.

As winter is arriving in the southern hemisphere, days are getting shorter and colder. What is short and cold is relative though… ;-) 

Lockdown

Baie Papaye, New Caledonia, South Pacific, March-April 2021

With all international flights canceled and strict protocols and quarantine for the few travelers accepted into the country, New Caledonia has maintained its corona-free status since April 2020.

In the beginning of last month (March), however, some few positive cases were detected and the entire territory put in 4 weeks lockdown.

This is just after cyclone “Niran” and we are fresh out of the mangrove. As no nautical navigation, nor water sports, are allowed during the lockdown, we choose a protected bay to spend the isolation time in. 

An hour's walk a day is allowed, an appreciated stroll to stretch the legs and explore the exciting and diverse surroundings, which in my wild imagination takes us back to a prehistoric time.

Also 4 weeks in the very same spot flies very quickly! 

No day is the same. The sceneries, light, tides, sunsets and lunar phases are, as always, just as fascinating and oh so spellbinding.

The month of April has just begun and the strict isolation measures are starting to ease. With other words soon possible for us to stock up on water and food to remain autonomous for another month or two!

Cyclone "Niran"

Port Laguerre, New Caledonia, South Pacific, March 2021

We are back hiding in the mangrove forest as cyclone "Niran" is forecasted to approach the territory...

 

The mangrove is not only a good place to find shelter when needed during cyclone season, but one of the world's most productive and biologically diverse ecosystems. A very fascinating place to be! 

As we have entered the mangrove river well ahead of the depression, we are at first all alone in the green, lively forest.

When cyclone “Niran” starts to speed up and move towards New Caledonia, it doesn’t take long before we have many other sailor as neighbours in the mangove. “Niran”is now ranked up to a category 5 severe tropical cyclone and is predicted to hit strong and straight on the territory. Better be prepared for the upcoming strong winds!

Niran gives us a quick and intense visit. Even in our sheltered spot we get up to 93 knots of wind in the gusts swinging both masts and boats. 

In difference with the previous cyclone, this one doesn’t provide as much rain, but more wind causing plenty of damages on the island. 

We feel very thankful for the precious shelter the mangrove offers, keeping both us and the boat safe and sound!

Boatlife Between Cyclones

Noumea, New Caledonia, Southern Pacific, February 2021

When cyclone "Lucas" has passed, we soon leave the green mangrove which have been providing us with good shelter during the depression when the wind gusts peaked up to 79 knots. 

Heavy rain falls are now exchanged with smiling sun and blue skies.

After 5 days spent in the sheltered mangrove, the blue lagoon welcomes us back with glassy conditions. The many floods caused by the recent heavy rain have made the visibility in the lagoon very murky and dark, but out at the reef the underwater world is still clear and blue.

Blue eyed squids and sleepy white tip reef sharks keep us company during our refreshing exploration free dives.

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Back at the boat yard, its time for some improvement work on the boat. A new dingy- and solar panel support is made and put in place!

One month has passed since cyclone “Lucas” and it is already time to head back to the mangrove as there is another cyclone on its way!